Every place I've been, and through each phase of life, there is a certain rhythm to it. It's generally pretty easy to describe all of the places in general, and even in specific, and straight-forward to describe different phases - college student, married, mom, etc... This will be my attempt at the somewhat more difficult exercise of describing that indescribable part - the rhythm to being an American expat in India. (For those of you that "read" the blog only for the pictures - check out here!)
The roller coaster analogy is probably the most helpful at illuminating the general feel of it in most things. Some days are awesome - relaxing in Palm Meadows, exploring the Vijayanagar ruins of Hampi, celebrating Holi with a giddy three year old, champagne brunch. Some days just suck - sitting in traffic next to a cow, the utter dirtiness of India, days spent in the bathroom and the subsequent lingering fear of eating, the frequent cold showers and warm beverages. But the roller coaster is about more than just cool adventures and minor (and some major) annoyances. There's just not much middle here - no gentle sloping part to this ride where you go peacefully around the corner and reflect on the rest of the park. That's because it's entirely unfamiliar - there's so little that isn't extremely cool or really crappy; living here generates a near-constant unsettled feeling.
Trying to identify with things generally just makes it worse, so I'm re-reading my yoga book and trying to learn to just accept it as it is. For example, having a driver, cook and maid seems simple enough to explain. What's hard to explain are the days I hate it. You are never alone here - driven around with no control over when you leave or when you get there, never alone in the car to turn up the music and jam out to a song you can actually understand, or alone to fight with your husband about
his crazy driving. Our cook now is actually really, really good, but there's days where I would kill for a bowl of grape-nuts for dinner (with brown sugar and tasty milk, mmmmm) and not wondering what it is I'm eating or if it will kill me. The maids sound nice, and generally are - but they are there constantly. In six days of two people working nearly full time, they get less done than our old cleaning service did in two hours. Now, since I realize this sounds like me bitching about our pampered existence, I
am bitching about a full-time staff of four people in a palm-tree lined resort. I know. There's times it just makes my American blood boil - I CAN DO MY OWN DAMN LAUNDRY AND DRIVE MY OWN DAMN CAR!!! And (in my opinion), better than it's getting done here. It drives me nuts some days to the point where if one more person calls me ma'am....
Anyhow, the lack of a "middle" applies also to classes. And this is confronting as I've always been a solid part of that middle, and I like it there. It's hard to teach Caden humility and respect for others (and remember it yourself) in a place that really doesn't seem to expect it. I can only imagine the blog comments I'd get for going too far into this subject, but socio-economic reality pervades the "rhythm" here nearly everywhere you go. It's hard to describe, but not something I thought about much (or appreciated nearly enough) living in a wealthy
country. I'm simultaneously annoyed with the begging and the lack of sanitation and basic infrastructure, and annoyed with myself for being annoyed.
Last observation in this theme, is the sense of time. There's really only two times here - now, or later. Not too many clocks (why would there be when the power goes out every day?). Either there is a sense of urgency, real or imagined, that it must be done NOW (this sense happens mostly at work with emails coming in at all hours of the night expecting immediate response - could someone tell them we're in a different time zone?). Or there is a complete lack of now... it will get done
later (this also happens at work but I won't elaborate - it's sometimes clear that we are in start-up mode, and there are many priorities, apparently not all of them mine). Our days at home too are either a whirl-wind of activity or a complete lack of it (refer to above and the stigma tied to doing your own chores).
I'm not sure if that cleared anything up, or just won me a plethora of blog comments, but there is something to the rhythm here that is really hard to describe. When everything seems just different - even things you'd never expect would feel so uncomfortable. There's days where I really do visualize myself as Elizabeth Shoe in The Saint - running toward the US Embassy at full speed, screaming "I'm an American... Open the gate!"
Whitefield name is due to white people, since during independence this place was given to British who decided to stay back. So not to do with current foreigner population, but to do with anglo indian population 50+ years back... :-).
There are still some apartments as well a club for anglo-Indian people in whitefield.
March 7, 2007 10:42:00 AM IST